In Mexico we travel from highlight to highlight. At least that’s how the current part of our journey seems to us. As soon as we leave the impressive prehistoric city of Teotihuacán behind us, we marvel at an inviting water world in the Grutas Tolantongo. This is a large open-air thermal bath – we almost can’t describe it any other way. The following paragraphs provide clarification as to where and what we experienced here.

The thermal water

The whole complex of Grutas Tolantongo stretches for several kilometers in a narrow valley with the striking light blue course of the river. The river carries the thermal water from the source further back in the valley through the entire natural park. The color of the water comes from the many dissolved minerals. Of course, we expect not only beautiful visual impressions, but also therapeutic properties of this mineral-rich water. The second important factor is the water temperature. Directly at the springs – the water rises in countless places throughout the spring area and gradually joins the same course of the river – the water temperature is said to be a good 40° C. Correspondingly, the river water is no real cooling at the warm temperatures but is about body-warm. This is still true until far along the river, where we settled rather in the lower part for three nights with our Ben.

Swimming terraces of the Grutas Tolantongo

Right at the entrance, there is a first area where small water basins have been built into the side of the hill. We assume that the now artificial pools have been made to resemble the original pools formed by the limestone. Due to the many minerals in the water, smaller and larger rock terraces form everywhere, where water runs uncontrollably over the bedrock.
This is one of the main attractions of the Grutas Tolantongo and accordingly well visited throughout the day. Based on other experience reports, we decide to come here directly in the morning and indeed: We can claim a pool all to ourselves for a good hour. What luck! The warm water as well as the magnificent view into the vastness of the green valley complete our experience in the swimming terrace of the Grutas Tolantongo.

Spring region of the thermal water

After the extensive first round of bathing, we wonder about the water springs. There is supposed to be a beautiful waterfall. And indeed, on the other side of the river a part of the thermal water runs over many small bulges in the slope into the main course of the river. But the great sight is still not enough for us, here we buy a ticket for a comparable, but simpler – and therefore also cheaper – second nature park “La Gloria”. The parks are connected by a suspension bridge and so we walk over the turquoise river closer to the source region of the water.
Via different paths we overcome the height of the waterfall and thus arrive in a small, natural canyon. Here even further back in the very narrow valley a part of the spring water originates. There the spirit of adventure grabs us and we work our way as far as possible through the natural pools further along the watercourse until we reach the last sign “Prohibido el paso”, “Passage forbidden”. The experience is quite impressive, the canyon is not much wider than 10m at this point and without getting wet we won’t get any further anyway. A perfect experience for little adventurers like us!

On the way back we try out one or the other natural swimming pool. In the park La Gloria everything is more natural, so also the majority of the swimming pools. The contrast between the two parks is a real enrichment. On the one hand the well-developed and maintained infrastructure of Grutas Tolantongo and on the other hand the very natural, more pristine side of La Gloria. At the end of our visit in the park La Gloria we do not miss to stand directly in the big waterfall, which we had described above. There is a small passage in the rock from the path directly into and behind the waterfall. We let ourselves be briefly showered by the water masses of varying strength. The fine, almost spray-like places are already cooled down and give us a little refreshment on the way. The places with really strong jets of water are still very warm like most of the water so close to the springs.

Speaking of springs: Back in the park Grutas Tolantongo, on the second day, we discover the caves, where a large part of the thermal water originates. In a real grotto in the mountain, a huge jet of water springs from the top of the cave, which is about 6m high. This is a very special experience for us, we have never seen such masses of water naturally springing from a mountain. And also, here the water is very warm for a natural spring. Further inside the mountain, best explored with a flashlight, there are other less well-lit places where at least as much water as from the spring hole in the cave ceiling springs.
Another passage a few meters higher in the same hill is even warmer. This passage is a natural sauna. All around, small jets of warm water shoot out of the rock, and the air is as heated as it is humidified. In this passage we can only stand it for a few minutes. It is, however, in equal parts to the – for the narrow, short corridor – many people with whom we just share this experience and the heat. But it was definitely worth it!

El rio – the turquoise river

We did not find a name for this section of the river, not even on the map or on any plaque in the parks. It is simply “el rio”, the river. After all, everyone knows what exactly is meant by the river, there is no second one in this valley. We again find this pragmatic simplicity marvelous. Where nothing else is necessary, even the simplest use of the terms is enough. This is a splendid expression of the Mexican serenity and pragmatism that is displayed in many places.
The river is slightly terraced every 8-10m, so that the current is slowed down a bit and smaller pools are formed in which it is easy to swim. Simple stairs were designed with cement bags, so that the entry into the river is easily doable for everyone.

Camping at the Grutas Tolantongo?

Overnight stays are explicitly allowed and most of the park – besides the hotel facilities – are also explicitly designed for camping guests. In Mexico, camping is understood as the much simpler camping with tents. A large part of the area at the river is prepared flat so that many can put up their tents. But there is also a place for us directly at the river, where the camper vans are allowed to drive directly to the water. In the half shade – the solar panels should not be completely unemployed – with a view on the water we live really well in Mexico. So, we stay for three nights at the Grutas Tolantongo, longer than originally planned. The procedure to spend the night is a bit strange: All those who are still in the park with a camper or tent after 19:00 need tickets for the next day at full price. Those who then leave the park before 08:00 the next morning will be refunded the ticket price for that day. We don’t quite understand this procedure, but never mind. The overnight stay itself is thus free of charge – which is a real plus!

Costs

Compared to our thermal baths in Switzerland, this thermal park here in Tolantogo is almost a bargain!
For the park Grutas Tolantongo for 24h entrance we pay 180 pesos per person, which is about 9.35 CHF. In addition, we pay per 24h parking 30 pesos (about 1.50 CHF).
Furthermore, we buy, as described above, a day entrance for the area La Gloria, which costs us 100 Pesos per person (about 5.20 CHF).
Since we cook by ourselves and do not depend on the numerous restaurants in the park, we enjoy relatively inexpensive days in a wonderful setting.

Grutas Tolantongo – a water paradise in the middle of a barren, dry landscape

We are thrilled by the Grutas Tolantongo. In the middle of a barren, tundra-like landscape between narrow mountain valleys a small water paradise opens up. All the basic services needed (such as toilets and showers) are freely available and the various pools, watercourses and river sections can be visited again and again at one’s own pace and at will. Only the approach was a little difficult for us, we had caught the unpaved route from Santiago de Anaya to the Grutas Tolantongo. This road is an experience in itself, but there is also a paved road from Ixmiquilpan which is probably used by all local people for the route…
We spent two great days with a lot of water, but also a lot of sun and many unforgettable impressions in the Grutas Tolantongo!