Our next destination after the sacred crater lake Chicabal is on our way back to the vicinity of Guatemala City. Chichicastenango, or Chichi for short, is known for its huge market, which takes place twice a week. It is said to be the largest market in the whole of Central America! This is where the Highland-Mayas meet and sell their goods, from food to clothing, household utensils and now also a large section of souvenirs. Naturally, we time our stay here so that we are in Chichicastenango on a market day. We look forward to a dense, colorful and lively market, which is the result of a long tradition of the various Mayan peoples and continues to represent living Mayan culture.

Market days Thursday and Sunday

The big market in Chichicastenango only takes place on two days: Thursdays and Sundays. But in trade it takes place every week. It is therefore important to plan your stay in Chichicastenango for one of these days of the week.
We are not disappointed, the market is relatively large and still very authentic. This is certainly also due to the fact that the tourists at this market take on the role of spectators rather than the main clientele. There is a large hall that is almost exclusively reserved for fruit and vegetable traders. The paved hall then merges seamlessly into market stalls made of corrugated iron and wooden slats. But of course, the simplicity in no way limits the practical functionality of the stalls. Next to the food, meters high, fine, hand-woven fabrics are hung on the walls for display. Other product segments include tin cooking pots, clay pots and spices. Toys from China are probably a newer product segment, but certainly no less important. Especially now, just before Christmas, some children’s wishes will probably be fulfilled in this way.
Originally, the various Mayan peoples from all regions of Guatemala met in Chichicastenango to trade. And even today we see many Mayans who are probably here for their monthly shopping and buy large quantities of non-perishable goods.

Churches in Chichicastenango

We are happy to take in more impressions of Chichicastenango now that we are here. There are special-looking churches that are completely white on the outside and very dark to black on the inside. This is also the first time we really see the connection between the Christian and Mayan religions. For the Mayans, many individual small altars are set up in the central aisle of the church. They are not high, only about 10 cm above the floor. We can observe a small ritual performed by individuals. Four candles are placed on the altar, flower petals are placed in the middle of the candles and finally a sip of schnapps is poured over them. We do not know any more detailed meaning or whether and how a prayer or wishes are said. Apparently, however, it is said to go as far as animal sacrifices, for example of a chicken. We are curious but somehow relieved that we have seen the simpler version of the ceremony today.
It is forbidden to take photographs in the churches here and we would not consider it correct to take pictures of people during their personal rituals. For this reason, the interior of the churches is left to your imagination.

After two nights in Chichi, we continue south, always heading south, and soon cross the border into El Salvador. However, we have one memorable stop before we leave Guatemala at the southern border. We have saved the city of Antigua for last and from there we make a very special excursion that we have been looking forward to for a long time.