Department of Boyacá

by | Apr 14, 2024 | Colombia, South America | 0 comments

Now we have finally escaped the heat of the Colombian coast and are visiting the higher region of Boyacá. Here we are consistently traveling between 2000 and 3000 m above sea level. This makes the nights really cool and the days pleasantly warm with up to 28°C in the sun. This gives us plenty of scope to get out into nature on foot again. We visit various places in the Boyacá department one after the other.

Ráquira – pottery village

The first place we visit is dominated by fine pottery. On the approach to the village entrance, there are already a number of fincas where mountains of pottery are waiting to be baked or have already been baked. The artistically glazed pottery is then for sale in the various small stores in the center of Ráquira. Beautiful color combinations and unusual shapes stand side by side as far as the eye can see. We are accompanied on our exploration tour through the village center by beautiful murals and colorful houses. As we have often mentioned before, we unfortunately don’t have a trailer with us for so many souvenirs, so once again the view has to suffice. Although there is a lot going on when we arrive, it quickly quietens down in the evening. Therefore, we can park our campervan Ben directly on the large main square and spend the night here.
And then we drive on to the next village with a completely different theme, but one that is just as important for tourism. As with all the next places we visit in the department of Boyacá

Paipa – village of the hot springs

Paipa has a natural spring with hot thermal water. It is not only thermal water but also mineral water. In short, we decide to visit the thermal baths for the first time after a long waiting period. Mimi treats herself to a massage and Paddy to the mineral spa course. The water is a soothing, if somewhat strange, experience. The water is not only warm, but also very salty thanks to the minerals and interspersed with a kind of green algae. This means you can enjoy the bubble pools and jet course with the natural thermal water. The massage was good, but everything around it was a little strange for our liking.
Our conclusion is, yes, you can do it – but please don’t compare it with European thermal baths. The surrounding facilities are very plain, simple and, as you would expect here, not maintained to European standards. Nevertheless, it was a revitalizing change and probably the first thermal bath since we set foot on the American continents.

Monguí – village of balls

Monguí is a pretty little mountain village with very uniform and well-kept houses in the village center. There are even some English-style, two-story terraced houses, which give the village a unique look for Colombia. But on our walk through the village, we realize that Monguí is home to a somewhat peculiar-looking craft; you can buy all kinds of balls everywhere!
There are several ball factories that produce balls for sports such as football, volleyball etc., most of them probably by hand! The balls are also available in various sizes and colors. The most unusual soccer ball is probably one that is made with a fur exterior – a fluffy soccer ball. We’ve never seen anything like it!
In any case, football fans get their money’s worth here: a ball museum, a visit to the football factory or would you prefer to make your own ball with your own print? Monguí has it all. For hikers, the region is also known for its multi-day tours. We would actually be tempted, but in the end, we somehow decide on the leisurely plan in Monguí and simply enjoy our visit to the village.

Laguna de Tota – villages with trout

Paddy in particular is drawn to another natural highlight of the region: the Laguna de Tota or Tota Lake. At 3015 meters above sea level, it is the highest water reservoir in Colombia. And because of its size, the lake also has lots of fish. Fresh trout are sold everywhere in the neighboring villages or offered directly as a lunch menu. The view over several islands and a lake where you can’t even see the other end at this altitude is very impressive. Another special feature is that onion fields have been planted around the lake as far as the eye can see, one onion field after another.

This is almost the end of our round trip through the department of Boyacá. Almost because we are saving a great place for Easter week. The whole of Colombia is out and about during the holy week (Semana santa) to go on vacation, visit family and friends and accompany the religious processions through the villages. Many stores and businesses are also closed, so the better plan for us is to stay in one place until the Easter festivities are over. With the intention of experiencing some of it, of course. Villa de Leyva should be ideal for this. We will report again from there.

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About us

We are Paddy and Mimi, a travel-hungry couple from tiny Switzerland in the middle of Europe. We call ourselves slow travelers, because we like to spend enough time in one place or country. Therefore we don’t only visit the typical sights but also get to know the culture of the respective country.

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Punta Arenas, Chile

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