The name of this national park is somewhat confusing for us. There is a very well-known glacier in Argentina, Perito Moreno, and a lesser-known Perito Moreno National Park. We are now visiting Perito Moreno National Park, which is not home to the well-known Perito Moreno glacier. The confusing name is due to the common discoverer named Perito Moreno, who gave his name to both the national park and the glacier of the same name. The national park is not so well known and therefore less frequented, but it was recommended to us by several travelers who came up from the south, so we don’t miss out on the nature here. We enjoy a few days in the secluded wilderness of Perito Moreno National Park.

Belgrano Peninsula

The Belgrano peninsula is only connected to the surrounding land by a small, natural dam. The rest of the island is surrounded by Lake Belgrano. And here in Patagonia, the lakes are also special. Both sides of the same lake, which are separated by the dam, have different colors. One side is blue with a slightly white-greyish hue and darker. The other side is greener and is close to a turquoise-green-blue. The difference is due to the inflowing water with different sediments. Depending on the sediment type and density, the water has a different color. Very special and the landscape is once again impressive and unique at the same time. The island with its barren, Patagonian cold steppe and its yellow-brown tones contrasts strongly with the two-tone blue water. All around are high, rugged rocky peaks in gray-reddish tones and finally white snow peaks. The whole scenery could have come straight out of a well-made movie. But we are actually here and not just in the movies and are able to enjoy several days of hiking in this unique landscape.

Laguna De Los Témpanos

The longest hike to date takes Paddy to the Laguna De Los Témpanos. Due to the flat profile of the hike, the 34 km can be completed in one day without extensive preparation. The narrow hiking trail leads through the cold steppe of Patagonia past many rugged mountain peaks, always along the Río Lacteo. The river is white-grey because of the sediment carried in the water. The color of the water is reminiscent of a mixture of milk and water, hence the name Lacteo. Finally, at the bottom of the valley, the path turns left, with an ice-cold river crossing, and up to the glacier. At the opposite end of the glacial lake, the source of the river, ice is constantly breaking off. The icebergs float in the murky water and slowly melt away, sending the water down the valley. The whole panorama is framed by the icy mountain peaks – another breathtaking sight in rugged yet beautiful Patagonia!

Refugios in Perito Moreno National Park

Many of the hikes can quickly take a longer time in Perito Moreno National Park. To make these hikes more accessible, there are free refugios strategically placed along the hiking routes. Now that’s a service! Neither the national park nor the overnight stay in a refugio costs anything. The only thing is that places are very limited and should ideally be booked in advance. You also need to pack a sleeping mat and a sleeping bag for the overnight stay and with that nothing stands in the way of your hut adventure. Firewood and a toilet are close to each refuge. If we had sleeping bags with us, we would certainly have reserved a night like this. But without a sleeping bag it gets a bit uncomfortable. That’s why we start the hikes from our campervan Ben as usual.

We would come back to Perito Moreno National Park in a heartbeat. The route is a bit tiring, there are several kilometers on gravel roads – sometimes with more, sometimes with less washboard – which already costs a lot of time just getting there. Later in the park, the roads don’t get any worse, but they don’t get any better either. Perhaps this is precisely why the masses of tourists have not yet arrived in Perito Moreno National Park and the park shows the nature of Patagonia at its best.